Inspection for Your Roof: What I Look For vs What You Can Check Yourself
When customers ask me about a roof inspection, they usually want two things: to know if the roof is safe and dry, and whether they are about to face a big bill. In my 18 years on the roof around Brighton, Hove, Worthing and the nearby towns, I can tell you this: a proper roof inspection is not just a quick glance from the pavement. Done right, it is a structured check of the whole system that keeps water out of your home.
In this guide, I will walk you through how I approach an inspection, what you can safely look for yourself, and the warning signs that mean you should get me out sooner rather than later.
Why Bother With a Roof Inspection at All?
If you ask me, I will tell you straight: most of the big, expensive roofing jobs I do started out as small, cheap problems that were ignored for too long. A cracked tile or a loose bit of felt turns into rotten timbers, mouldy insulation, and sometimes full ceiling replacements.
Here is what a sensible inspection schedule can do for you:
- Catch tiny leaks early – before they show on the ceiling.
- Extend the life of your roof – by fixing localised damage instead of waiting for full failure.
- Plan your budget – a good inspection gives you a realistic idea of how many years you have left.
- Protect warranties and insurance – many policies assume you keep the roof in reasonable condition.
Two Types of Roof Inspection: Quick Check vs Full Survey
When customers talk about an “inspection for roof”, they usually mean one of two things:
1. Quick Condition Check
This is what I would usually do when you call me out because you are worried but you have not seen water indoors yet. It is focused on obvious weak points:
- Overall condition of tiles, slates, or flat roofing felt.
- Flashings around chimneys, walls and skylights.
- Gutters and downpipes, especially at joins and outlets.
- Visible issues with fascias, soffits and roof edges.
The aim here is simple: is there anything that needs urgent attention to stop a leak starting or getting worse?
2. Full Roof Survey
A full survey is what I carry out when you want a proper, documented opinion: maybe you are buying a house, planning a loft conversion, or deciding whether to repair or replace an older roof.
On a full survey I will:
- Check the outside covering carefully (tiles, slates, or flat system) for patterns of wear, not just individual defects.
- Look at how the roof has been detailed around every vulnerable junction – chimneys, parapet walls, valleys, roof windows, balconies and dormers.
- Inspect the roof space where possible – looking at timbers, ventilation, condensation, water staining and daylight coming through.
- Assess the remaining life of each part: coverings, flashings, underlay, battens, gutters, fascias and soffits.
- Explain which bits can be repaired and which are near the end of their life.
On my jobs I also add photos and notes into my client portal so you can see exactly what I see without climbing a ladder yourself.
What I Check on a Flat Roof During an Inspection
Most of the roofs I work on in Brighton and Hove are flat or low-pitched extensions, garages, dormers and balconies. These are the areas that leak first if they have not been detailed correctly.
1. Surface Condition
On felt or bitumen roofs, I look closely for:
- Cracks, splits or blisters in the felt.
- Bare patches where the mineral surface has worn away.
- Standing water that does not drain within 24 hours after rain.
- Soft spots that suggest rotten decking underneath.
If you are worried about a specific flat roof area – like a garage, rear extension, porch, balcony or dormer – I can combine the inspection with a realistic price indication for repair or replacement so you know exactly where you stand.
2. Edges and Upstands
In my experience, more than half of the flat roof leaks I fix do not come from the middle of the roof but from the edges and upstands:
- Where the roof meets the wall (often near parapets or firewalls).
- Around railings and posts on a balcony or terrace.
- At the junction with pitched roofs, dormers and bay windows.
When I inspect, I check that the felt has been taken up the wall to the right height, fixed properly and capped correctly. Poor detailing here is a common source of damp patches on upstairs walls.
3. Outlets, Drains and Gutters
Flat roofs rely on clear outlets and gutters to get the water away. During an inspection I check:
- Box gutters for debris, standing water and failed joints.
- Roof outlets for blockages and perished seals.
- Downpipes for splits, poor connections and signs of overflow.
Even a sound roof covering will leak inside if the outlets are blocked and water finds a way under the edges.
What I Check on a Pitched Roof During an Inspection
On pitched roofs – whether it is a standard terraced house in Brighton or a more complex roof with hips and valleys – the inspection is slightly different but the goal is the same: is water being kept out and is the structure still sound?
1. Tiles, Slates and Ridges
On the outside I look for:
- Missing, cracked or slipped tiles or slates.
- Loose or badly bedded ridge and hip tiles.
- Areas where the pattern of tiles suggests movement or sagging.
One broken tile near a valley or chimney can let in a surprising amount of water in the right wind.
2. Underfelt and Battens
If I can access the loft or roof void, I will always check the condition of the underfelt or membrane and the battens that the tiles sit on. Warning signs include:
- Felt that has perished or turned to powder.
- Daylight visible through gaps that should be covered.
- Black staining or mould from prolonged damp.
- Soft or rotten battens where water has been leaking for a while.
When these elements have failed over a wide area, that is when I start talking about more in-depth repairs rather than just swapping a few tiles.
3. Flashings and Junctions
In my 18 years on the roof, I have noticed that a lot of leaks are blamed on “the roof” when the real issue is a bit of failed lead flashing or poorly sealed junction work. During a pitched roof inspection I will always check:
- Chimney flashings, step flashings and soakers.
- Junctions with neighbouring roofs on terraced houses.
- Valleys where two roof slopes meet.
- Roof window and skylight edges.
A small, neat lead repair in the right place can often save you a full re-roof if the rest of the covering is still sound.
Indoor Signs: What Your Ceilings and Loft Tell Me
A good inspection for your roof is not only done from outside. I also want to see what is going on indoors:
- Ceilings: stains, bubbling paint, or hairline cracks near external walls.
- Walls: damp patches high up, especially around chimney breasts.
- Loft: dark stains on rafters, rusty nail heads, damp insulation, or musty smells.
These clues tell me two things: where water is getting in, and how long it has been happening. That is the difference between a quick local repair and something more involved.
What You Can Safely Check Yourself (Without Climbing on the Roof)
Here is my honest advice: do not climb onto your roof. I would not want my own family up there, and I am on roofs every day. What you can do safely from the ground or a stable upstairs window is:
- Use binoculars to look for obviously missing or slipped tiles.
- Check gutters after heavy rain for overflows or joints that drip.
- Look at your ceilings and upper walls once a month for new marks.
- Glance into the loft a couple of times a year with a torch for new staining or damp smells.
- After storms, look for debris, tiles, or felt on the ground.
If you spot anything odd, that is the time to book a proper inspection rather than waiting until water is coming through the ceiling.
Typical Problems I Find During Roof Inspections in Sussex
To give you a realistic picture, here are the issues I discover most often on inspections around Sussex:
- Flat roofs: split felt at the edges, badly sealed around walls and pipes, ponding water, and roofs laid dead-flat with no proper fall.
- Pitched roofs: worn underfelt, loose ridge tiles, broken tiles in valleys, and old fixes that were only meant to be temporary.
- Gutters and fascias: rotted timber fascias hidden behind old gutters, leaky joints, and wrongly pitched gutters.
- Chimneys and walls: missing lead flashings, cracked render, and parapet walls without proper capping.
Most of these start as small maintenance jobs. Left alone, they gradually turn into more expensive structural work.
How I Approach an Inspection: Start With Your Main Worry
When I turn up to inspect a roof, I always start with one simple question: what is worrying you the most? It might be a specific damp patch, a dodgy looking flat roof, or just that the house is getting older and you want peace of mind.
From there I plan the inspection so I am not just ticking boxes but actually answering your concerns. During and after the inspection I will:
- Show you photos so you do not have to take my word for anything.
- Explain in plain English what is fine, what needs watching, and what needs attention now.
- Give you realistic options – from short-term patch repairs to full replacements where necessary.
If you use my client portal, you also get a clear record of the inspection and work done, which helps when you sell the property or need to show insurers that you have maintained the roof properly.
When an Inspection Turns Into Urgent Repair
Sometimes, halfway through an inspection, it is obvious that the problem cannot wait – for example, when I find:
- Water already pooling inside the roof structure.
- Serious rot in structural timbers.
- Large areas of loose or missing tiles on a weather-exposed side.
- Flat roofs with active leaks into electrics or new plaster.
In those cases, I will say so directly and give you clear immediate options to make the roof safe and watertight before anything else gets damaged.
How Often Should You Have Your Roof Inspected?
Based on what I see locally, here is a sensible rule of thumb:
- Every 1–2 years for older roofs (20+ years) or flat roofs exposed to full weather.
- After any major storm with strong winds or flying debris.
- Before big interior works like a new kitchen or full redecoration – no point making it look nice if a hidden leak will ruin it.
- When buying a property – do not rely only on a quick surveyor’s glance.
A quick, honest inspection costs far less than one serious ceiling collapse or long-term damp issue.
What You Get From Me With a Professional Roof Inspection
When you ask me to inspect your roof, I keep it as simple and transparent as possible. You can expect:
- Plain-language feedback – I explain what I see and why it matters.
- Photos of problem areas – so you can make decisions with confidence.
- Clear options and fixed prices for any recommended work – no vague estimates.
- Online access to your documents, schedules and progress photos if work goes ahead.
When customers ask me whether a roof inspection is worth it, my honest answer is this: if it stops just one serious leak or helps you avoid buying a property with a hidden roofing time-bomb, it has more than paid for itself.
Next Steps if You Are Worried About Your Roof
If you are in Brighton, Hove, Worthing or nearby and something about your roof is bothering you – a stain on the ceiling, a flat roof that looks tired, or tiles that do not look right – the best move is to arrange a proper look rather than guess from the ground.
You can book a free roof inspection and site visit in Sussex with me, and I will give you a straight, no-pressure opinion on what your roof actually needs.
If you already know water is coming in and it feels urgent, use my priority emergency leak repair booking so I can help you make the roof safe and watertight as quickly as possible.
If your main worry is an older flat roof – maybe on a garage, rear extension or balcony – I can also combine the inspection with a clear, realistic cost for repair or replacement so there are no surprises later on.
However you choose to move forward, my approach is always the same: honest advice, fixed prices, and full visibility of what is happening on your roof from first inspection to final photo.